JULY - AUGUST 2009
July 1, 2009
We had our Phantom Screen doors installed on the two doors leading to our deck from the livingroom and diningroom. These are the "hidden" type screens that roll up out of the way.
Screen doors, if you haven't noticed, are constantly being walked into. We have several friends who deal with this problem all the time. One friend has resorted to putting a big "X" of duct tape on the screen.
Anticipating this problem, I noodled on what we could do....something decorative of course. And I came up with what I believe is a good "fix".
I decided to use a stencil and after some trial and error, I found one I liked on the internet. I thought I'd glue glitter to the screen. I bought glue and glitter. And a happy accident happened. The type of glitter I bought is used on t-shirt artwork because it swims in it's own pliable glue - which allows for the "Phantom" screen to wrap around a roller.
Three guesses what design I used. First two don't count.
Visual aids are helpful! Whenever we describe the double-helix staircase, we go into great detail explaining just how this unique style of staircase works. Greg had to make a to-scale model several months ago because he had to work out the placement of the first step so that it creates an impact when the first step faces you as you enter the room. Of course the finished product will have ballusters and a handrail!
July 3, 2009
About radiant heating system installations:
Greg's previous experience with Gypcrete was back in the big homes he worked on in Beverly Hills, California. A one and a half inch layer of gypsum underlayment was always poured on the second floor for sound deadening.
This type of overpour is used to cover radiant tubing and create a larger heat mass much like a concrete slab. Because of its lighter weight, it can be used as an overpour on second story subfloors with radiant tubing. Still, the floor has to be engineered to accept this additional weight of about 15 pounds per square foot. But this stuff isn't your daddy's gypsum underlayment. Now they make aspecial formula to enhance the heat transfer of the radiant tubing. There are two products: GYP-SPAN Radiant made by Hacker Industries and ThermaFloor by Maxxon.
These products require special machinery and the installers have to be "factory trained" in order for the installation to be warranteed. This means you must go to their websites and use their locator link to find a qualified installer in your area. We only had one installer for each company in our entire state. Sadly, when you receive the bids, you can't help feeling you are a captive audience. The two bids were different by $2,000. According to our radiant design company, this overpour is around $2.60 per square foot on average.
But here's the rub. They usually complete the job is 3 or 4 hours! Greg even contacted the companies with this query: "I know your product has to be installed by "qualified" installers. Two choices are all that's available to me in our state. When I am the contractor on the job, and one of these companies comes in and pours 2,000 square feet in 4 hours; and the charge is $6,000, how do I justify the high cost to the homeowner who sees a $1,500 per hour price tag?! Even if three workers show up; let's say at $100 per hour, labor is $1,200. Okay, for argument's sake, let's round it up to $1,500. That leaves $4,500 for the negligible cost of material, your equipment investment; and then your profit and overhead. Why such an exorbitant markup?"
Greg never got a satisfying answer.
Some floor coverings have problems being installed over gypsum underlayment products. There are sealers specially formulated to seal the underlayment to work with tile, wood or vinyl floors. But Google this, and you'll find such products don't always work. We are installing Marmoleum in our kitchen, a retro-looking product reminiscent of your mom's old kitchen floor. Made from linseed oil, it wears extremely well and is naturally anti-bacterial. So Greg called the manufacturer (always a good thing to do before assuming the answer) and asked what the optimal subfloor would be for their installation. Without hesitation, the tech said, "Wood."
Installing the radiant tubing where we we plan to install linoleum requires a "dry sandwich" system. All this was communicated to the radiant company that designed our radiant system, as there would be different calcs for a radiant tube covered by gypsum underlayment and a radiant tube encased in a wood sandwich.
All tubing runs were detailed on the plans from the radiant design company. Once the tubing is installed, it can be air tested for leaks and then covered.
We must finish installing this dry sandwich in those areas before we can install the tubing in the areas that will receive the gypsum underlayment. One reason: we have so much construction materials (drywall, lumber, saws, general supplies) stored all over these areas, we have nowhere else to store them but the dry sandwich areas.
The dry sandwich areas must be built up one and a half inches to flush out with those areas that meet with the gypsum underlayment. So we first started by completely covering the subfloor with 1/2" OSB (a type of plywood made of pressed particles) which was glued and then screwed down, perpendicular to the floor joists beneath.
Then Greg milled down strips of 3/4" plywood to create the channels for the tubing and then milled round pieces of ply to achieve the radius at each end of a tubing run. Then, thin aluminum plates are fit into the channels to hold the tubing in place and screwed or nailed down on one side only to transfer the heat more evenly. These thin plates are made by several companies, i.e. Pex Supply and Mr. Pex Systems.
The tubing is then snapped into these aluminum channels. Installing the tubing on the straight runs was easy: we just unspooled enough tubing so that it could be long enough not to require much bending. Placement of the "uncoiler" is key to this. Then, we just placed the tubing over the aluminum slot, and walked over it to push it down into the slot.
The "uncoiler" lets you pull out and install the PEX-AL-PEX tubing. Greg searched Google and found some DIYers made their own version. In our case, the radiant company loans the uncoiler at no charge. Once again, free is a good price. Since we will return this uncoiler once the radiant tubing is installed, Greg will make his own version of the uncoiler for installing the PEX water lines. Roughly, it involves a couple of squares of plywood, a five gallon bucket and a Lazy Susan.
A word about working with tubing. There are many kinds of PEX tubing for different applications. In our system we used PEX tubing in our loops covered by gypsum underlayment. In the dry areas we used PAP or PEX-AL-PEX. This is PEX with an aluminum core acting as an oxygen barrier and typically used in dry sandwich systems. Also aluminum core PEX or PEX-AL-PEX expands 9 times less than PEX and won't make noise when the aluminum plates expand during the heating process. For a very good video of what PEX is check out this video.
Although the PEX-AL-PEX tubing is pliable, it is still fairly rigid. Encased in plastic, the aluminum between the layers helps keep the tubing conform to the shape of the channels. Bending the tubing is more difficult than it would appear. Although there is a tool that helps make bends, it is very expensive, about $500. So we opted to do without. Through trial and error, we found you cannot just bend into a curve and hope for the best. It is imperative you not create a kink in the tube, and simply bending practically guarantees that's what you'll end up doing. This can be very expensive because each run of tubing must be continuous - no cutting and splicing! So, if you're at the end of a run, you must pull the entire run up and start all over again. In some cases, you can find a place for the tubing you had to remove on a shorter run.
The trick, I found, was to make sure you make your bends tight up against something rigid. So I used the actual channel Greg had created. The size of the bend and channel width (according to the plans created by the company that designed our system) varies depending on floor location. That size determined if I bent around the curve, or pushed the tube up against the back of it.
Because the tubing is rather stiff, once we rounded a bend and began to fit the tubing into the straight run, the bend would inevitably pop out. Greg made these temporary wooden straps which he screwed down over the curve. These were removed just prior to installing the top sheet of plywood.
If you look closely, you will see a little bottle of white powder. While installing these plywood channels, we found carpenter ants loved these little super highways. Greg decided to add a little dab of ant powder under an occasional aluminum plate. Bon Appetit!
July 5, 2009
The tubing in the kitchen is now complete.
You'll notice there is no tubing in some areas. That's where cabinetry will go and it's not necessary to install tubing there.
July 9, 2009
Now that we've (finally) sold that Eldorado Stone, we are having the area graded to create a turnaround - and a parking space or two - for our driveway.
It will take a lot of dirt to grade this out, and our trusty Excavator, Les, will take dirt from a nearby lot of ours to do the job. This will save us a good chunk of change.
July 10, 2009
It ended up taking about ten dump trucks full of dirt and huge boulders to build the pad.
Les starts placing boulders which will form the edge.
I begin "skirting" trees on the property, meaning removing lower branches to reveal the tree trunk. This is also done as fire prevention because branches low to the ground can be a hazard - especially near your house.
This is physical work requiring me to just "get in there". When I'm doing outdoor projects like this, I make sure to wear bug spray, cover up, and try not to think of what insects may be crawling on me!
With all this pruning, I have dozens of nice sized branches that we may be able to use for our exterior front staircase ballusters...or use to make a brush pile - a haven for wild birds.
One beautiful thing about living amongst a forest is the "natural" creation of what I call outdoor rooms. It's so much more interesting to come to a grove of trees and then walk though and be surprised by a hidden scene.
While I'm fending off spiders and who knows what else, Greg begins to clean up the floors for the GYP-SPAN Radiant pour and that leads to lots of organizing of supplies - something that needs doing.
July 12, 2009
Anytime you dig a trench, take advantage of the hard work and lay conduit, water pipe, phone cable - whatever you can for future use! You can never allow for enough. This will save you lots of grief whenever you add any feature. Take it from experience.
We simply didn't have time to closely supervise when our waterfall and pond were installed. The installer had an artistic eye, but was lacking in the ability to think ahead. At some point after we move in, we'll make the wiring and other elements that power the water feature more user friendly.
The driveway is shaping up.
July 14, 2009
We finally had our garage doors installed a couple of months ago. They come in white. I don't do white. There is no white on the exterior of our home, the color palette is dark green, cedar, and copper.
I've been anxiously awaiting the day when I could paint the white away.
Before I get started, I wash the garage doors down with "eco friendly" TSP (like the old Spic n' Span).
July 15, 2009
Today I paint my first coat.
This makes me nervous as a cat. I HATE painting.
Mainly because I never think I can do a good job. Besides just the sheer application of paint, there's the "cutting in" - making sure the line between two colors looks professional.
As with anything, it's the details. How many times have you seen a homeowner paint job and there's roller marks from the wall color on the ceiling when it's bumped by the roller. Drives me nuts.
So, no matter how hard I try, the finished product rarely pleases me.
First things first. I use the blue masking tape that painters use because it will release easier - if not left on too long. Greg showed me how to do this properly.
This takes forever...to do it right that is. It takes time to get it on in a straight line, and time to make sure it's down securely so paint doesn't seep underneath. And STILL you have bleeding. The dryer your brush, the less likely it is that paint will seep through.
Here's what the doors look like from the factory. Basically, the green will go on the outer "frame" and the "crossbuck" (big Xs) in the center. The space surrounding the X will be painted copper.
I do some more clean up, and then I'm back at pruning. It's a work in progress.
July 16, 2009
Our new driveway pad is done. At least having the dirt and boulders placed.
But the pad still will need some leveling.
Meanwhile, how he does this all by himself I do not know, but Greg built this heavy duty (OverKill Bill) storage shelf to get lumber that won't be used for a couple of years out of our way in prep for the GYP-SPAN Radiant pour. In the background is the Home Depot style storage rack he built to hold a mountain of insulation we picked up on sale. That, too, he built and stocked by himself.
July 17, 2009
I've put the second coat on our garage doors. Talk about depressing...that first coat really looks awful (I won't even include a picture!). Blotches everywhere. So getting the second coat on makes me feel a little better.
And while I'm painting away, Greg continues to clear up the floor.
Greg also works on installing some of the electrical wiring for our pond. Until now, it's been wired temporarily. And he'd like to get this done before we go through another winter.
Sometimes the conduit for the wiring must be shaped in order to fit into the electrical box; especially when studs are in the way. So Greg uses a heat gun to bend the pipe. Never use an open flame like a butane torch. Also, work in a well ventilated area. The finished product looks like this.
July 18, 2009
Greg needs a band saw to construct his now famous double helix staircase. They are expensive and he's been haunting Ebay for a deal - and he finally found one.
So today we traveled about 2 hours away to pick it up.
He bought a great big old Powermatic that dates from the 1960s. The guy selling it was a very interesting fellow. He has 50 acres in the forest that he's owned for 30 some years; and the place is a veritable graveyard for mechanical equipment of every kind.
The saw was in a warehouse that had to be 200 feet long and 50 feet wide and 2 stories tall.
Greg had NO IDEA how gargantuan this thing was!
We brought along a refrigerator dolly! Ha! This thing weighs 620 pounds and the only way to get it into our modest trailer required a forklift. It was such a tight fit, there was only one inch to spare on either side of the opening. This guy displayed marksmanship abilities with that forklift.
Greg, of course, Boy Scout that he is, came prepared. He brought along power tools and lumber to secure this thing so it didn't go shooting out the back end of our trusty trailer.
What an adventure.
Now all we need to do is figure out how we'll get this thing into our "shop". I can't even take a picture because it'll stay in our trailer for months. And the open end is backed up against a wall.
July 20, 2009
Garage door painting continues.
And it's finally looking like something!
Greg's working on the tub surround for radiant tubing. More on this later.
July 21, 2009
Yipeee! The last coat of green paint goes on the garage doors.
But, naturally, there's a problem. The blue tape has basically been glued down by the paint.
I have a bit of arthritis in my hands, but even if I didn't, I can't draw a straight line not to mention draw a straight line with a knife. I have to call on Greg to get me outta this mess. He ends up using a utility knife to cut it away.
Between applying paint, I prune more of the trees on our property.
July 22, 2009
Finally! I begin applying the copper paint to the garage doors.
Of course, the first coat is depressing as all get out. Again, ain't commemorating this with a photo!
July 23, 2009
I was anxious to get back to painting another coat of copper on the garage door, but ended up on the computer all day.
Greg works on prepping the closet for installing the radiant tubing.
The middle of our big walk-in closet will have an island made up of four sets of wire drawers pushed together - the kind of set up you'd find at Home Depot or Lowe's. I used this system in our previous home and it works out great for undies and the like, and the top is a good place to put my costume jewelry.
At any rate, we have big appliances to get out of the way, and since the island doesn't require tubing, we can park our appliances there until we need them (won't that be the day!).
We've had to get creative in finding places to put things to get them off the floor, and storing lumber and anything else that will fit between the studs on the walls works great. We hold the stuff in place (if it needs it) with bungee cords.
July 24, 2009
And I'm back to painting.
And Greg is still working on prepping the closet floor.
Newest in my collection of forest debris, this gigantic stump (about as tall as I am). It was a present from our Excavator, Les, who not only created our new driveway but also did some clearing work on a neighboring lot. We saved it from the burn pile.
It took me a few hours to clean it up. In time, grasses and wildflowers will grow up around it and it'll look like it's been there for a millennium.
July 25, 2009
Still painting those doors while Greg still works on the tubing for the closet - and adjacent laundry room.
For a change of pace, Greg goes looking on our property for some young cedar trees, or big branches on mature trees, to eventually use for our handrails.
Those branches will be waiting a long time.
July 27, 2009
And still another coat of copper on the garage doors.
Greg is still working on tubing.
And I do an interim site clean up.
August 7, 2009
Finally I'm able to bring something to the table!
As I've explained in detail earlier, bending the radiant tubing can be tricky because a kink is very bad news and could result in tearing out the entire run of tube and replacing it. There shall b no splicing in radiant tube installation!
Greg was having a problem working with the tubing and attempting to get it to bend to the loop shape.
Usually I'm the first one to get frustrated and throw up my hands. But Greg has so much on his mind, I step in and try not to get emotionally involved and....I figure it out!
August 10, 2009
We've been laying the tubing for the pantry, laundry, and hallway; and we have a bit of a scare.
We're now working with a heavier aluminum plate to hold the tubing in place. And a piece of the tubing was superficially nicked when we tried snapping the tube into place.
Once these tubes are sealed in concrete or the dry wood sandwich, you don't ever want to have to think about them again.
So rather than worrying if the nick was serious enough, we decided to pull up all the tubing we installed and start over!
At least we'll be able to use that tubing on another run somewhere - after cutting off the portion that's been nicked.
Better safe than sorry.
August 12, 2009
Yesterday, we completed the tube install in all the dry sandwich areas and now we've put down the top sheet of OSB (a mini-milestone) .
August 13, 2009
Greg and I begin vacuuming and sweeping the floors.
Every little bit of debris, especially anything sharp like a nail or a snipped piece of aluminum could eventually damage the tube as it expands and contracts from the hot water coursing through it.
As we cleaning - one more time, I can't help thinking about all the things I won't have to deal with - that far off "someday" - once we've got paintings on the walls:
picking up screws and nails
picking up chunks of wood
sweeping up mounds of sawdust
wood scraps, sawdust, wood shavings everywhere
hearing the deafening screeching sound of a table saw
looking at a coat of dust that covers.... everything
finding dead insects on window sills
finding dead ants all over the floor, between the studs, on windowsills
finding white powder (ant killer) sprinkled all over the place.
Meanwhile, Greg's forearm is swollen and he can hardly work. This is scary. If something happens to Greg's hands or arms, work stops.
We happened to take our kitty to the vet today and asked her to take a look sat his arm!
August 15, 2009
Today is the big push to get as much equipment, supplies, and trash out of all the rooms for the GYP-SPAN Radiant pour.
We have guests visiting and will be "forced" to take a few days off.
But, we have a deadline of having this stuff poured by the end of next month. Otherwise we could have some problems with cooler weather.
So, we put in a(nother) twelve-hour day until the cleanup is finished.
For the first time since construction, with most of the building materials out of all the rooms, we'll get a feel for what it will eventually look like.
I had hoped to stroll through the house to experience the empty rooms today, but we don't finish up until 10 p.m. and it's too dark.
August 21, 2009
Now that I've more or less finished painting the doors, I do some touch up and then begin painting the decorative hardware that will grace them.
Still left to do: apply the clear sealer.
And if I do say so myself, they came out looking pretty good!
The special copper paint I bought for this purpose is very pricey...about $110 a gallon. That's because it's infused with actual copper. And I love it.
It's a superior product from the Crescent Bronze Powder Company. If you've been to Las Vegas glitzy hotels or restored old theaters you might see this in place of actual (extremely expensive and labor-intense) gilt. I used it in our previous home and by the time we left it had been up nearly 15 years and looked just like the day it was painted.
I'll also be using this paint on our livingroom beams...eventually.
August 22, 2009
Greg has been working on our bathtub for the master bath; prepping the installation site so that we can surround the tub with radiant tubing.
We'll also tube the walls surrounding the shower and behind the wall that will have the towel bar between the two.
This is rarely done - most likely because it's an expensive "luxury"option.
So Greg created a shell which the tub will fit into, and the shell is where the tubing will be attached.
This required lots of thought to get the shape of the shell just right.
Why are we doing this? Well, just in case there's ever a problem - with the tub, plumbing, or tubing - he wanted to make sure there was access.
Most installers (if they would do this at all!) would wrap the tubing around the outside of the tub. But then how do you repair or replace it if you don't think ahead? And if your tub is the type, like ours, that has to be set in on top of the finished surround, it would be impossible to glue the tube to the sides of the tubs.
Now that the shell is complete, we hoisted the tub into the shell (scroll right to see both images) so Greg can check measurements and determine the position of the tubing. The two of us would never have been able to do this if the tub were porcelain. Ours is fiberglass. But still, it's heavy and unwieldy and I'm lucky I'm strong and can help in these situations (not bad for almost 59 years of age!). You may remember the hysterical story about getting this thing up the stairs a few weeks ago.
We had a lot of discussion about where to place the faucet, handles, and sprayer. After lots of internet shopping, we opted to go with Danze plumbing fixtures throughout the house. The quality we're told is between Kohler and Delta, and it was well priced. And it didn't hurt that the online company, Ira Woods, wouldn't charge us for shipping. Although Greg could have installed the fixture anywhere, certain locations would require a lot more work because of the bathtub shell. So we decided to find a location that moved us forward quicker.
Our black fiberglass tub is by Jacuzzi. We opted not to have a jetted tub. We had one before, and we hardly ever used it. And when we did, it was very noisy, and the jets never seemed to be in just the right place.
In the past few years they've come up with soaking tubs with tiny air jets like these available through Nextag. I still don't think I'll miss it.
August 25, 2009
Yesterday and today, Greg's still working on that tub.
And I have another messy job to do.
Before we can have the GYP-SPAN Radiant pumped in, all the plates (the lumber at the base of walls) must be caulked so the gypsum underlayment doesn't ooze into places where it's not supposed to.
Greg has an air powered caulk gun but it just proved to be an exercise in frustration. Don't know why because I have used it before. So, it was the old fashioned do-it-yourself caulk gun.
While Greg can do this in his sleep and everything looks neat as a pin, I'm a messy disaster. And since I can't always put it on where it should go, I end up using my bare fingers to smooth it down. Got a great splinter too.
This caulking job isn't finished by a long shot.
August 26, 2009
Greg now begins building the radiant system manifolds; the housing for the mechanicals.
Northeast Radiant Technology, Inc. is the company that designed our system. They are located in Maine -- on the other side of the country!
After they review your house plans, they design the system and provide the parts. (you'll remember the detailed scale model Greg sent them to make sure they understood the room dimensions and arrive at the correct calculations.
One of their services is to completely build the control panel. The control panel is the heart of the system and the heated water is sent from it to all the manifolds controlling the different zones. It is to these manifolds, located throughout the house, that the individual tubing loops are attached.
August 29, 2009
Planting our new driveway pad with White Dutch Clover required frequent watering.
I was excited to use our new "turn around" and drove Greg's Jeep over it.
Or at least I made the attempt, before the Jeep was hopelessly stuck; its rear tires sunk in a muddy trough.
I should have realized how mushy it was by the depth of the sunken deer hoof prints!
So, now we're letting the driveway pad "settle" over the winter and see if it compacts.
August 30, 2009
Greg has been building those manifold cabinets to house our radiant manifolds. He's using melamine, a plywood type product coated with something like formica, manufactured by companies like MelaminebyDSM.
And he's moving ahead with finishing off the wall behind our livingroom fireplace. First he installed the insulation.
You might ask why we are installing the drywall behind the fireplace at this particular point in time. Because this needs to be in place in order to complete the framing of the fireplace facade. Otherwise, you would never be able to get back into areas where you can't have access.
Greg got permission from our inspector to go ahead and install the drywall behind it by taking a picture of the bare insulation. The inspectors know what an exacting job he's doing and so give him a little leeway.
I was helping with the drywall installation and the space was so tight behind the fireplace and the wall, only I was able to squeeze behind. But once the drywall was in place, just that half inch of (hard) thickness made it almost impossible for me to squeeze out again. I ended up having to climb up and over the top of the unit.
Note: It is very important not to compress the material when you install insulation. This defeats the purpose.
And compressing the batting was basically unavoidable. I did the best I could to fluff it up again and along the way I tore the paper.
The manufacturer recommends that tears be repaired with, you guessed it, duct tape.
Special Type X drywall, available at Lowe's, is used behind the fireplace. This type of drywall is also used for soundproofing and is manufactured by Quiet Solution for one. It is fire resistant rated and is the same drywall you would use between the common wall of a garage and house. Greg had also done this months ago behind the master bedroom fireplace and instead of taping the joints of the drywall with drywall mud he just used "fire rated" caulking at all the seams. These fire sealants and fire block products are made by 3M.
Greg also preps the "gallery" area where our double helix staircase will be located as well as the front door entry area where we'll install the parquet flooring. Greg is going to experiment with cut off pieces from all the left over glulam beams to create our parquet. Here's one running horizontal in the center of the picture. (Also in this photo: you'll notice a vertical metal piece amongst the studs. This is protecting electrical conduit and an HRV duct run. OverKill Bill is taking all the right precautions and making sure no one, not even he, nails through the pipe when attaching anything to the wall.)
There are many companies that make glulam products. This will be tricky because he needs to make sure the tree rings of the pieces are worked together so they won't expand much. But more on this later.
In our Entry, Greg needed a separation between the gypsum underlayment (where we'll install carpeting) and the parquet.
Greg just can't do it the easy way; and so he created a curved separation which requires strips of doug fir ripped to 1/8" by 1-3/4", then laminated together. Obviously, the wood floor could not have gone on top of the gypsum underlayment because of the thickness of the gyp; plus the floor would then be over 2" and create a trip between the two surfaces.
After ripping down the strips of doug fir, Greg spread Titebond III wood glue between each strip (there are 8) and then used his trusty clamps to hold it all together. Greg highly recommends Titebond III which is waterproof. Titebond II is water resistant. All part of his OverKill Bill mantra. In the picture you will see "red blocks". Greg used these pieces of 2"x4" as a form to clamp the 8 laminated strips against the curved separation. This curved piece will allow us a place to nail the carpet tack for our entryway carpet.
File this under: You can think things up and design and plan, but you just don't really know until "you're there".
Case in point, the design of the parquet.
Originally I had envisioned the border between the parquet and the carpet in the shape of a gothic arch, repeating the same shape of our front door, the livingroom beams, and a portion of the main hallway ceiling, etc. But as we worked with it, we could see it wasn't practical. The area was so wide, the peak of the arch wasn't "reading". So Greg came up with this undulating "off center" curve that points you toward the livingroom.
Early on we decided not to install tubing under this entry flooring, but after a conversation with the radiant designer he worked up a "dry sandwich" layout. And when we thought about it, we really do need some heat there when guests come to visit in the winter months.
I cover up our fireplace, otherwise it will be buried under layers of sawdust and other debris over time. This must've taken at least an hour to make sure all openings were sealed.
I begin painting the sealer on our "copper" garage doors and hardware. Product is manufactured by Crescent Bronze Powder Company and is excellent. I was instructed to paint the doors only with Latex and this sealer is milky but dries clear - and most importantly doesn't alter the brilliance of the copper.
DON'T FORGET to KEEP CHECKING
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